Weekend update
Dec. 26th, 2006 09:12 am![[personal profile]](https://www.dreamwidth.org/img/silk/identity/user.png){kind=small}
johnridleyFairly productive weekend, though as I'm working on finishing the new room, the rest of the house is slowly deteriorating... I MUST clean up the baking and other stuff tonight (stuff that doesn't fit or shouldn't go into the dishwasher has been pushed aside for days).
I actually used the new projector on Sunday; an overflow crowd was expected for Xmas Eve service, so I ran to Meijer and bought 100' of RG6 and a couple of F-to-RCA adaptors, put my old Hi8 camcorder in the back of the sanctuary, and the projector in the back room where we put the k/i/d/'/s/ /t/a/b/l/e/ overflow seating, in an effort to make it slightly less miserable to sit back there. It was well received, so perhaps I'd better make sure that when I build the projector mount, it's easy to remove from the ceiling.
I messed with the projector last night and determined it needs to be 12 feet from the screen. This allows me to fill a 4' high screen, or zoom back and fill the full width of the screen inset area. It does have a 30% offset throw, so I may have to tilt it a bit to keep the picture up with only an 8' ceiling. I don't know how much keystoning that will incur; I'd rather not use the digital keystone correction if I don't have to, I'm afraid it might alias but I guess we'll see.
All the walls and the floor are in, the front and right wall outlets are in and live. The left (center of house) wall, projector and equipment rack will be on a separate circuit, I'll get that in soon. Surprisingly enough, when I put in the soffit to box in the heating ducts, all the nailers that I built into the wall actually lined up properly. I'm sure there's a gotcha waiting for later. The framing nailer is unbeatable for putting up soffits and other things that need to be held up and then nailed in place.
We went with conventional recessed lighting cans, 6 of them, and they're in and working. I picked up some 15 watt CF floodlamps from Lowes, and they promptly burned out. Despite being sold as "ideal for track and recessed lighting" I suspect that they were not designed to be run upside down. I returned them (2 burned out, 4 unused) and got the Sylvania version instead, put one of those in to see how it lasts before unwrapping all of them.
J and L stopped by Lowes a few days ago and picked up some nice decorative rings to go into the lighting cans later. The rings, even the cheap plastic ones, cost twice as much as the rest of the light fixture.
I need to do something about a cold air return. Doesn't need much, there's only one 4x10 heat duct into the room, so a 4x14 cold air return should be OK. The room won't need much heat. No windows, below grade, insulated. Not sure if I'm going to push the heat in near floor level, or leave it up near the ceiling where it is now. I may stop by Lowes and see if they have any 3.5 x 14.5" ducting to drop between studs. I can't just use the stud cavity as a duct because it's against the concrete wall and there's a half-inch gap between the studs and the wall. On the cold air return I will use the stud cavity, though I'll have to do some creative sheet metal bending at the top.
As soon as I finish the soffits (front one not done yet, a few boards left on the left) and figure out what I'm doing about heating, I should be about ready to hang insulation and drywall.
We're actually at the point where we're starting to think about colors and furniture.
I actually used the new projector on Sunday; an overflow crowd was expected for Xmas Eve service, so I ran to Meijer and bought 100' of RG6 and a couple of F-to-RCA adaptors, put my old Hi8 camcorder in the back of the sanctuary, and the projector in the back room where we put the k/i/d/'/s/ /t/a/b/l/e/ overflow seating, in an effort to make it slightly less miserable to sit back there. It was well received, so perhaps I'd better make sure that when I build the projector mount, it's easy to remove from the ceiling.
I messed with the projector last night and determined it needs to be 12 feet from the screen. This allows me to fill a 4' high screen, or zoom back and fill the full width of the screen inset area. It does have a 30% offset throw, so I may have to tilt it a bit to keep the picture up with only an 8' ceiling. I don't know how much keystoning that will incur; I'd rather not use the digital keystone correction if I don't have to, I'm afraid it might alias but I guess we'll see.
All the walls and the floor are in, the front and right wall outlets are in and live. The left (center of house) wall, projector and equipment rack will be on a separate circuit, I'll get that in soon. Surprisingly enough, when I put in the soffit to box in the heating ducts, all the nailers that I built into the wall actually lined up properly. I'm sure there's a gotcha waiting for later. The framing nailer is unbeatable for putting up soffits and other things that need to be held up and then nailed in place.
We went with conventional recessed lighting cans, 6 of them, and they're in and working. I picked up some 15 watt CF floodlamps from Lowes, and they promptly burned out. Despite being sold as "ideal for track and recessed lighting" I suspect that they were not designed to be run upside down. I returned them (2 burned out, 4 unused) and got the Sylvania version instead, put one of those in to see how it lasts before unwrapping all of them.
J and L stopped by Lowes a few days ago and picked up some nice decorative rings to go into the lighting cans later. The rings, even the cheap plastic ones, cost twice as much as the rest of the light fixture.
I need to do something about a cold air return. Doesn't need much, there's only one 4x10 heat duct into the room, so a 4x14 cold air return should be OK. The room won't need much heat. No windows, below grade, insulated. Not sure if I'm going to push the heat in near floor level, or leave it up near the ceiling where it is now. I may stop by Lowes and see if they have any 3.5 x 14.5" ducting to drop between studs. I can't just use the stud cavity as a duct because it's against the concrete wall and there's a half-inch gap between the studs and the wall. On the cold air return I will use the stud cavity, though I'll have to do some creative sheet metal bending at the top.
As soon as I finish the soffits (front one not done yet, a few boards left on the left) and figure out what I'm doing about heating, I should be about ready to hang insulation and drywall.
We're actually at the point where we're starting to think about colors and furniture.
